These instructions apply to the Skoda Kodiaq Mk1 (NS) 2016-2024.
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
When the remote on a Škoda Kodiaq Mk1 (NS7, 2016–2024) only locks the car from arm’s length, misses button presses, or stops responding altogether, the coin cell inside the key is almost always the reason. This first-generation Kodiaq — Škoda’s big VAG-platform (MQB) SUV — shipped with one of two keys depending on trim: a folding “flip” remote with a fold-out metal blade, or the KESSY keyless smart fob that lets you lock and start the car with the key in your pocket. Both take the same battery and both are a five-minute driveway job. Here is how to spot a dying cell, the exact battery to buy, and the step-by-step for each key type.
How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Shrinking range. You find yourself standing right beside the Kodiaq — or holding the key against the door handle — before it will lock or unlock. This is the classic first warning.
- A dashboard key message. On KESSY cars the driver-information display shows a low-key-battery warning (wording along the lines of “Key battery discharged”) when the smart fob is running flat.
- KESSY makes you touch the button. As a keyless fob weakens, passive lock/unlock at the handle stops working and you have to press the button on the key directly — then eventually hold it against the start button to start the car.
- Cold-morning dropouts. A cell that is nearly spent struggles in low temperatures, so intermittent response on frosty mornings is a strong hint it is due for renewal.
A CR2032 in a Kodiaq key typically lasts two to four years. If yours is around that age and showing any of the signs above, fit a fresh cell before you start suspecting the car’s receiver or the immobiliser.
The Battery You Need
Both the folding remote and the KESSY smart key use a single CR2032 — a 3-volt lithium coin cell, and the most common key-fob battery there is. You can buy one in any supermarket, pharmacy or hardware shop. Choose a good-quality branded cell (Panasonic, Energizer, Varta, Duracell); very cheap cells sag under the brief high current the transmitter draws and can give poor range even when brand new. The size is also printed on the old cell once you open the key, so you can always check before buying.
Method 1 — Folding “Flip” Remote
- Fold the metal blade out. Press the release button and let the blade swing open — it gives you something firm to hold and exposes the seam of the case.
- Pop the back cover off. The battery lives under a clip-held cover on the back of the fob. Slip a fine flat tool — a small plastic pry tool or a thin flat-head screwdriver — into the seam near the key-ring end and gently work it open. The cover is held by plastic clips, not a screw, so use light, steady pressure rather than force.
- Note how the old cell sits, then lift it out. Look carefully at which face — plus or minus — is showing before you remove it.
- Fit the new CR2032 the same way round as the one you took out, press it home under its clip, then clip the cover back on and fold the blade away. Test every button.
Method 2 — KESSY Keyless Smart Fob
- Release the emergency blade. Slide the small catch on the fob and pull the mechanical key blade straight out of the body.
- Split the case. With the blade removed, insert a flat plastic tool into the slot it leaves behind and gently prise the two halves of the fob apart. Work around the seam; the halves are held by internal clips.
- Ease out the old cell. On the smart fob you may need to lift or tip the small circuit board slightly to free the coin cell from its holder. Note its orientation as you take it out.
- Insert the fresh CR2032 the same way up as the original, seat it firmly, then press the two halves back together until the clips click and slide the emergency blade home until it latches.
⚠️ Copy the orientation of the cell you removed. A coin cell fitted the wrong way round will not power the key and can slowly discharge against the contacts. The owner’s handbook shows how to open the key but does not spell out the polarity, so the reliable rule is simple: match the plus/minus face of the cell that came out.
Confirm It Worked
Stand back a few metres and lock, then unlock, the Kodiaq. Full range should return straight away. On a KESSY car the passive handle-touch locking should work again, and any low-key-battery message clears the next time the car reads a healthy fob — sometimes after one drive cycle rather than the instant you close the door.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Re-check the orientation and seating. An upside-down or loosely seated cell is by far the most common reason a “new battery” still doesn’t work — the cell must sit firmly under its clip against clean contacts.
- Wipe the contacts. A smear of finger grease or light corrosion on the terminals is enough to cause dropouts; clean them with a dry cloth before blaming the key.
- Try the passive functions again. On KESSY, if the buttons work but hands-free locking at the handle does not, walk right up to the car and test each door — the passive aerials have a short range and confirm the fob is transmitting.
- Rule out the car’s own battery. A weak 12 V battery in the Kodiaq itself can make the car slow to wake and mimic a key fault; if the car struggles to respond even with a known-good fob, have the vehicle battery checked.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Changing the cell keeps the fob’s existing coding, so nothing needs reprogramming and the key works the moment you close it up. Adding a spare or replacing a lost key is a different matter: a blank must be ordered against the car’s VIN, the blade cut to the lock, and the transponder married to the Kodiaq’s immobiliser with VAG diagnostic equipment. That makes a new or extra key a job for a Škoda dealer or a qualified auto-locksmith — so keep the battery in your spare key fresh too, and you’re never down to a single working fob.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Škoda Kodiaq key fob take?
A single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell. It’s the same cell whether you have the folding flip remote or the KESSY keyless smart key.
Which way up does the battery go?
Fit it the same way round as the cell you removed. The handbook doesn’t state the polarity, so noting the plus/minus face before you take the old one out is the safe way to get it right — and a cell fitted upside down can flatten itself.
Do I have to reprogram the key after changing the battery?
No. A battery swap doesn’t touch the fob’s coding, so it pairs with the car straight away. Only a brand-new key needs programming to the immobiliser.
How long should a Kodiaq key battery last?
Usually two to four years. A KESSY fob that spends its life sitting near the car wakes more often and can run down a little faster than a plain remote.
My key still won’t work after a new battery — is the car broken?
Most likely not. Re-check the cell’s orientation and that it’s seated firmly, then clean the contacts. If a known-good cell still gives nothing, the fob’s transmitter may have failed — but that’s rare next to a flat or upside-down battery.
Can I still drive the Kodiaq if the fob battery is completely dead?
Yes. Use the emergency blade hidden in the fob to unlock the driver’s door, then hold the key fob against the marked spot by the ignition to start the car — KESSY is designed to read the transponder even with a dead cell, so a flat battery won’t strand you.
If the remote stopped working suddenly right after the car battery was disconnected — rather than fading over weeks — the cause is more likely a lost pairing than the cell, and it may leave a stored fault behind. You can look up what any related code means on autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Skoda. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.