These instructions apply to the Haval H2 (2015-2021).
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
If the remote for your Haval H2 (2015–2021) only works when you stand right next to the car, unlocks unreliably, or has stopped responding altogether, the coin cell inside the fob is almost certainly flat. The H2 — Great Wall Motor’s compact SUV, sold across Australia, South Africa, Russia and other markets — uses a smart keyless (proximity) key built by Hella: a three-button fob on the 433 MHz band with a hidden mechanical emergency blade. Because it is a proximity key you rarely press a button at all, so a fading battery often shows up first as the car not sensing the fob in your pocket. Here is exactly how to identify a dying cell, the battery you need, how to open the H2 fob without cracking the case, and why cutting a brand-new key is the one job you can’t finish at home.
How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Shrinking range. You have to be almost touching the door handle before it unlocks, or the car no longer wakes as you walk up to it. On a proximity system this loss of “passive” range is the classic first sign.
- Push-button start becomes fussy. The car takes two or three tries to detect the key, or you find yourself having to hold the fob closer to the start button than usual.
- A key-battery warning. If your H2 displays a low-key-battery message or symbol in the instrument cluster, treat it as a prompt to change the cell — don’t wait for the fob to die completely.
- Cold-weather dropouts. A near-flat lithium cell loses voltage in the cold, so intermittent response on frosty mornings usually means the battery is on its way out.
A coin cell in a proximity fob typically lasts two to four years. A keyless key that spends its life sitting near the car — on a hook by the door, for example — drains faster because it keeps waking to talk to the vehicle. If your fob is a few years old and showing any of the above, fit a fresh cell before you suspect the car’s receiver or immobiliser.
The Battery You Need
The Haval H2 smart key uses a single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell — the most common fob battery there is, sold in any supermarket, hardware shop or phone-accessory stand. It is a 20 mm-wide, 3.2 mm-thick button cell. A few parts listings quote a CR2025 (the same diameter but thinner) for some fobs, so the safe rule is simple: read the code stamped on the cell you take out and buy the same one. Choose a good-quality branded cell — cheap ones sag under the brief current spike the transmitter draws and can give poor range even when factory-fresh.
How to Change the Haval H2 Key Battery
- Release the emergency blade. Slide the small catch on the fob and pull the mechanical key blade straight out of its slot. Set it aside — you’ll use the gap it leaves to open the case.
- Split the case. Insert a flat plastic pry tool, a coin, or the emergency blade itself into the seam where the two halves meet and gently twist to pop the back cover off. Work slowly around the edge rather than forcing one corner, so you don’t snap the plastic clips.
- Note the orientation, then lift the cell out. Before you touch it, look at which face of the coin cell is showing. On the H2 fob the positive (+) side faces up, toward the back cover you just removed. Ease the old cell out from under its retaining clip.
- Fit the new cell. Drop the fresh CR2032 in the same way — positive (+) side up — and press it fully under the clip so it sits flat against the contacts. Handle it by the edges; skin grease on the faces can cause poor contact and short range.
- Close and reblade. Line up the back cover, press it until every clip clicks home, then slide the mechanical blade back in until it latches. Press each button and check the car responds from a normal distance.
⚠️ Get the polarity right. Fitting the cell upside down is the single most common mistake. A back-to-front coin cell won’t power the fob and can quietly discharge against the wrong terminal — so always copy the orientation of the cell you removed rather than guessing.
Confirm It Worked
Stand a few metres from the car and lock, then unlock, using the fob buttons; full range should return straight away. Then test the passive side of the system the way you actually use it — walk up with the key in your pocket and try the door handle, and confirm push-button start recognises the fob first time. If your H2 was showing a key-battery warning, it should clear once the car reads the healthy fob, sometimes after one drive cycle rather than instantly.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Re-check polarity and seating. Reopen the fob and confirm the cell is positive-side up and pressed firmly under its clip against clean contacts — a cell that has lifted slightly behaves exactly like a flat one.
- Clean the contacts. Wipe the battery terminals and both faces of the cell with a dry cloth; a smear of finger grease or light corrosion is enough to cause dropouts.
- Test the passive range specifically. If the buttons work up close but the car won’t sense the key as you approach, the cell may simply be a weak no-name brand — try a fresh branded CR2032 before assuming a fault.
- Rule out the car. A weak 12 V vehicle battery can mimic key trouble — slow to wake, no dash response — even when the fob is fine. If the H2 itself seems sluggish to power up, look at the main battery before condemning the key.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Swapping the coin cell leaves the fob’s existing coding untouched, so there is no reprogramming after a battery change — the key works the instant you close it up. Adding a new key is a different matter. Haval’s smart keys are proximity units that have to be married to the car’s immobiliser with diagnostic equipment, and a blank fob and its emergency blade must be ordered and cut against the vehicle’s VIN. That makes a spare or a lost-key replacement a job for a Haval dealer or an auto-locksmith with the right tooling. The practical takeaway: keep the battery in your spare fresh too, so you’re never down to one working key.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Haval H2 key fob take?
A single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell in the standard smart key. Because a few fobs are listed with the thinner CR2025, always match the code printed on the cell you remove.
Which way up does the battery go in the Haval H2 key?
Positive (+) side up, facing the back cover you take off. Note the orientation of the old cell before you lift it out and fit the new one the same way — upside down, it won’t work and can flatten itself.
Do I need to reprogram the key after changing the battery?
No. A battery swap doesn’t affect the coding, so the fob and the keyless entry work immediately. Only a brand-new key needs programming to the car.
How long should a Haval H2 key battery last?
Usually two to four years. A proximity key left sitting near the car wakes constantly to talk to the vehicle and can run down sooner, so range that fades earlier than expected is normal for a keyless fob.
My Haval H2 key still won’t work after a new battery — what now?
Re-check that the cell is the right way up and seated firmly, then clean the contacts. If the buttons work close up but the car won’t detect the key passively, try a fresh branded CR2032. Only if a known-good cell still fails is the fob’s transmitter likely at fault.
Can I still get into and start the car if the fob is completely dead?
Yes. Pull the mechanical emergency blade out of the fob to unlock the driver’s door by hand, and use the backup start method for a flat proximity key described in your owner’s manual (typically holding the fob against or very close to the start button). A dead cell won’t strand you.
If your H2 threw a warning light or the remote quit right after work was done on the car — rather than fading gradually — the trouble may be a stored fault rather than the coin cell. You can look up what a logged code means on autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Haval. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.