These instructions apply to the Saab 9-5 (9600) 1998-2010.
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
If the remote on your first-generation Saab 9-5 (the “9600” car, 1998–2010) has to be waved right at the door, has stopped flashing its indicator light, or has quit altogether, the coin cell inside is almost certainly flat. The 9-5 uses Saab’s distinctive one-piece key — the plastic remote body and the metal blade are a single unit, and the raised SAAB button on the fob releases the blade so you can split the case. One quirk trips people up: the battery size changed partway through the model run, so the 9-5 does not take a single “correct” cell. Below is how to tell a dying battery from a real fault, which cell your year needs, how to open this key without cracking the brittle plastic, and why a fresh key is a dealer job.
How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Shrinking range. You end up standing right next to the car, or pressing the fob against the door, to get it to lock or unlock. This is the first and clearest sign.
- The indicator LED stops flashing. The 9-5 remote blinks a small light on each button press; once it no longer lights, the cell is too weak to drive the transmitter — a quick way to confirm it’s the fob, not the car.
- It works only some of the time. Intermittent response, especially on cold mornings, is a near-flat lithium cell sagging under load at low temperature.
- Both remotes fade around the same time. If your spare is now also weak, that points to age rather than a fault in either key.
A coin cell in a 9-5 remote typically lasts two to four years. If yours is older than that and showing any of the above, fit a fresh cell before suspecting the receiver or immobiliser.
The Battery You Need
This is the one thing to get right on the 9-5, because it changed during production:
- Earlier cars (roughly pre-2003): a CR1632 3-volt lithium coin cell.
- Later cars (roughly 2003 onward): a CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell — the common, easy-to-find size.
The CR1632 is noticeably thinner than the CR2032, so the two are not interchangeable. Because the exact changeover year can vary, don’t buy on year alone: open the key first and read the code stamped on the cell you remove (it is printed on the flat face). Match that number and you cannot go wrong. Whichever size it is, buy a good branded lithium cell — cheap ones sag under the brief high current a transmitter draws and give poor range even when box-fresh.
Method — Opening the Saab 9-5 One-Piece Key
- Release the metal blade. Press the raised SAAB button (the badge on the body); the folding metal key blade swings out of the fob.
- Split the two halves. Insert the tip of the released blade — or a small flat-blade screwdriver — into the slot near the blade pivot and twist gently to pop the case apart. On the earliest cars the back is a plain cover you prise off at the edge indent instead. Go slowly: this plastic gets brittle with age, and forcing it is how tabs snap.
- Note the orientation, then lift the cell out. Check which face shows the printed code before you remove it, so you can drop the new one in the same way.
- Fit the new cell. Seat the correct size (CR1632 or CR2032) the same way round as the one you took out, making sure it clicks fully under its clip against clean contacts.
- Close it up. Press the two halves together until the seam is flush all the way round, then fold the metal blade back into the body.
⚠️ Match the polarity of the cell you removed. Coin-cell holders are keyed so the printed (positive) face meets a particular contact; fitting a cell upside down means it won’t make proper contact and can slowly discharge. Rather than trust any single “+ up” rule, simply copy the orientation of the old cell — that is always correct for your key.
Did It Work?
Stand back a few metres and lock, then unlock, the car — full range should return straight away. If the remote is sluggish to respond, Saab keys re-sync through the ignition: because the 9-5’s ignition sits on the console between the seats (a Saab safety trait carried down from the 99), slot the key in there, turn it to the ON position until the lock clicks, then test the buttons again. That lets the car read the transponder and settle the remote.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Re-check the size and seating. A CR2032 half-seated in a CR1632 holder (or the reverse) is the classic 9-5 mistake — the cell must be the right thickness and click fully home.
- Wipe the contacts. A smear of finger grease or light corrosion on the terminals is enough to cause dropouts; clean them with a dry cloth and reseat the cell.
- Re-sync at the console ignition. Turn the key to ON for a few seconds, remove it, and try the remote again — the fob sometimes needs one read cycle to fall back into step.
- Rule out the car’s own battery. A tired 12 V battery can make a 9-5 slow to wake and mimic a key fault; if the car itself is sluggish to respond, charge or test the main battery before condemning the remote.
- LED still dead with a known-good cell? The remote’s transmitter may have failed — uncommon next to a simple flat or wrong-size cell, but it does happen on keys this age.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Changing the coin cell keeps the fob’s existing coding, so nothing needs programming afterwards. A new key is different. The 9-5’s immobiliser reads the key’s transponder at the console ignition switch and only starts the engine if the code matches one stored in the car. A blank key therefore has to be cut to the car and its transponder taught to the immobiliser with Saab diagnostic equipment, ordered against the VIN. That makes cutting a spare or replacing a lost key a job for a Saab specialist or auto-locksmith — so keep your spare’s battery fresh too, and you’re never down to one working key.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Saab 9-5 key fob take?
It depends on the year: earlier 9-5s (broadly pre-2003) use a thinner CR1632 3-volt lithium cell, while later cars (roughly 2003 on) use the common CR2032. The two are different thicknesses and not interchangeable, so open the key and match the code printed on the cell inside.
How do I open the Saab 9-5 key without breaking it?
Press the SAAB button to release the metal blade, then slip the blade or a small flat screwdriver into the slot by the pivot and twist gently to split the halves. The plastic is brittle with age, so ease it apart rather than forcing it.
Which way up does the new coin cell go?
Fit it the same way round as the cell you took out. The holder is keyed so the printed (positive) face meets the right contact; copying the old orientation is always correct and avoids a slow discharge.
Do I have to reprogram the key after a battery change?
No. Swapping the cell doesn’t touch the coding. If the remote is slow afterwards, put the key in the console ignition, turn to ON for a moment, and it re-syncs. Only a brand-new key needs programming.
How long should a 9-5 key battery last?
Usually two to four years. Frequent locking and unlocking, or a spare left where it gets knocked or warmed, can shorten that.
Can I still drive if the fob battery is completely dead?
Yes. Use the metal blade to unlock the driver’s door manually, then put the key in the console ignition and start as normal — the car reads the key’s transponder at the barrel, so a flat remote battery won’t strand you.
If the remote died the moment the car battery was disconnected — suddenly rather than fading over weeks — the likely culprit is the pairing or a stored immobiliser fault, not the coin cell; you can look up what any logged code means on autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Saab. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.