These instructions apply to the Chevrolet Trax Mk1 2013-2016.
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
When the remote for a Chevrolet Trax (2013–2016) only locks the car from a foot away, needs several presses to answer, or stops responding altogether, the coin cell inside it is almost certainly flat rather than the car being at fault. The first-generation Trax was sold with two fob styles: a folding “flip” remote that shares GM’s small key design with the Aveo and Sonic, and a fixed remote head with a slide-out mechanical key on some North American cars. Both take the same battery and both are a five-minute driveway job. Here is which cell to buy, how to open each fob cleanly, and why a completely new key is the one part you can’t do yourself.
How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Range keeps shrinking. You end up standing right beside the Trax, or holding the fob against the door, before it will lock or unlock. This gradual loss of distance is the classic early warning.
- The button LED goes dim or dark. The little indicator light on the fob fades or stops flashing on a press — a fast way to prove the remote, not the receiver, is the weak link.
- It only works some of the time. Hit-and-miss response, especially first thing on a cold morning, is a nearly-flat cell that can’t hold voltage in the cold.
- One button dies before the others. Lock might still work while the tailgate or unlock button no longer does, as the cell struggles to supply the brief current the transmitter needs.
A CR2032 in a Trax remote usually lasts two to four years. If yours is past that and doing any of the above, fit a fresh cell before you start suspecting the alarm, the immobiliser or a wiring gremlin.
The Battery You Need
Every first-generation Trax fob — flip remote or fixed head — uses a single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell. It is 20 mm across and 3.2 mm thick, the most common fob battery made, and you can pick one up in any supermarket, pharmacy or hardware shop. Choose a fresh branded cell; bargain-bin coin cells can sag under the transmitter’s momentary current draw and give feeble range even when they read as “new” on a meter.
Method 1 — Folding Flip Remote
- Press the chrome release button on the side so the metal key blade springs out, then fold it back in — it just makes the fob easier to grip while you work.
- Find the thin seam running all the way round the edge of the case. Slot a small flat-blade screwdriver or a plastic pry tool into the seam near the hinge end.
- Twist gently to pop the two halves apart. The case is designed to unclip here; don’t force it, and work round the seam if one corner resists.
- Note how the old cell sits, then ease it out. Drop the new CR2032 in with the positive (+) face upward, toward the back cover.
- Press the halves back together until they click all the way round, and test every button.
Method 2 — Fixed Remote Head
- Slide out or unclip the mechanical key blade, if yours is removable, so it’s out of the way.
- Insert a plastic pry tool into the seam between the front and back shells and work it round the joint to separate the halves — there’s no screw, they clip together.
- Lift out the old CR2032 and fit the new one positive (+) side up, matching what you removed.
- Close the case, refit the blade, and check the range from a few paces away.
⚠️ Mind the polarity. A CR2032 dropped in upside down bridges the contacts the wrong way and will slowly drain while doing nothing useful — and it can leave the fob dead until you turn it over. Always copy the way the old cell was sitting; if in doubt, the “+” marking faces the back cover on this remote.
Make Sure It Took
Step back several metres and lock, then unlock, the Trax. Full range should snap straight back. If the button LED is bright and the car answers first time from across the car park, you’re done — there is nothing to reset or relearn after a simple battery swap.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Recheck the polarity and seating. The single most common reason a “new” battery doesn’t help is a cell fitted the wrong way up or not clipped firmly against both contacts.
- Clean the terminals. A film of finger grease or light corrosion on the little metal tabs is enough to cause dropouts — wipe them with a dry cloth before blaming the electronics.
- Try a known-good cell. If the LED still won’t light with a fresh branded battery, the transmitter itself may have failed — rare, but it happens on older fobs.
- Rule out the car’s own battery. A weak 12 V battery can make the Trax slow to wake and mimic a key fault; if the whole car feels sluggish, check that too.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Changing the coin cell leaves the fob’s pairing untouched, so it keeps working the moment the fresh battery is in. A brand-new key is a different story: the Trax’s immobiliser has to be accessed with a GM-capable diagnostic tool, and a blank remote matched to the car before it will start the engine. That puts adding a spare or replacing a lost key firmly in Chevrolet dealer or auto-locksmith territory — so keep the battery in your spare fresh too, and you’ll never be down to one working remote.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Chevrolet Trax key fob take?
A single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell, whether you have the folding flip remote or the fixed remote head. Both first-generation fob styles use the same battery.
Which way does the battery face in a Trax fob?
Positive (+) side up, toward the back cover. The safest approach is to note the orientation of the cell you remove and drop the new one in exactly the same way.
Do I have to reprogram the fob after changing the battery?
No. A battery swap doesn’t clear the coding, so the remote works straight away. Only a replacement key that has never been paired to the car needs programming.
How long should a Trax key battery last?
Around two to four years of normal use. Frequently mashing the buttons, or a low-quality cell that can’t hold voltage, will shorten that noticeably.
The remote still won’t work with a new battery — what now?
Check the polarity and that the cell is seated firmly, then clean the contacts. If the LED still refuses to light with a known-good battery, the fob’s transmitter has likely failed and the remote needs replacing rather than just a cell.
Can I still get into the Trax if the fob is completely dead?
Yes. Use the mechanical key blade — it flips out of, or slides from, the fob — to unlock the driver’s door manually, and the car will start once you’re inside. A flat coin cell won’t strand you.
If the remote stopped working suddenly right after the 12 V battery was disconnected — rather than fading over weeks — the pairing or a stored fault is a more likely culprit than the coin cell; you can look up what any logged code means on autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Chevrolet. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.