These instructions apply to the Hyundai i10 Mk2 (IA) 2014-2019.
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
If the remote on your Hyundai i10 Mk2 (IA, 2014–2019) only locks the car from arm’s length, responds on the second or third press, or has stopped doing anything at all, the coin cell inside it is almost certainly flat. Most second-generation i10s came with a folding “flip” remote — the fob with the metal blade that springs out at the press of a button — while higher trims could be specified with a smart (keyless-entry) fob. Both run on the same cheap battery, and swapping it is a five-minute driveway job. Here is how to tell a dying cell from a real fault, the exact battery to buy, and the correct way to open each fob without cracking the case.
How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Shrinking range. You have to stand right beside the i10 — or almost touch the fob to the door — before it locks or unlocks. A healthy remote works from several metres away, so this is usually the first clue.
- The button LED fades or stops. The little indicator light on the flip remote dims or fails to flash on a press once the cell is weak — a quick way to confirm it is the fob at fault, not the car.
- Intermittent, press-again response. Buttons that work only sometimes, especially on cold mornings, point to a near-flat cell that struggles to deliver current at low temperature.
- A key-battery warning (keyless cars). i10s fitted with the smart fob can show a low-key-battery message in the cluster when the fob’s cell is running down.
A coin cell in an i10 remote typically lasts two to four years. If yours is around that age and doing any of the above, fit a fresh battery before you start suspecting the receiver or the immobiliser.
The Battery You Need
The Hyundai i10 Mk2 remote — both the folding flip key and the smart keyless fob — takes a single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell. It is the most common fob battery made and sold in any supermarket, hardware shop or newsagent. Fit a good-quality branded cell: budget batteries tend to sag under the brief high current the transmitter draws, which can leave you with poor range even straight out of the packet.
Method 1 — Folding “Flip” Remote (most i10s)
- Press the release button and let the metal blade spring out, then fold it back and hold it closed — it just gives you something firm to grip.
- Turn the fob over and find the seam that runs around the edge where the two halves of the case meet. Some flip remotes also have a small cross-head screw on the back — if yours does, undo it first with a fine (Phillips) screwdriver.
- Split the case at the seam. Insert a thin flat tool — a small flat-blade screwdriver, a plastic pry tool or even the metal blade itself — into the notch and gently twist to pop the two halves apart. Work slowly; the plastic clips are the only thing holding it.
- Note which way the old cell sits, then ease it out. The new CR2032 goes in positive (+) side facing up, the printed side visible.
- Press the two halves back together until every clip clicks home (refit the screw if there was one), then test all the buttons.
Method 2 — Smart (Keyless) Fob (higher trims)
- Release the emergency blade. Slide the small catch on the fob and pull the mechanical key blade straight out of its slot.
- Insert the blade — or a thin plastic tool — into the gap the blade leaves behind and gently prise the two halves of the case apart.
- Lift out the old cell. Fit the fresh CR2032 the same way round as the one you removed — make a mental note of which face pointed up before you take the old one out, as smart fobs do not always seat the cell the same way as a flip key.
- Click the case back together and push the metal blade back into its slot until it latches.
⚠️ Get the polarity right. A coin cell fitted the wrong way round will not power the fob and can slowly discharge against the contacts. Always copy the orientation of the cell you took out — on the flip remote that is positive (+) up.
Make Sure It Took
Stand back a few metres and lock, then unlock, the i10. Full range should return straight away and the button LED should flash brightly again. On a keyless car, any low-key-battery message clears once the system next reads a healthy fob — sometimes instantly, sometimes after a short drive.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Re-check the polarity and seating. An upside-down or loosely seated cell is by far the most common reason a “new” battery makes no difference. It must sit flat and firm under its metal clip.
- Clean the contacts. A smear of finger grease or a little corrosion on the terminals can cause dropouts — wipe them with a dry cloth or a cotton bud.
- Try the cell in something else. A fresh-looking battery can still be dead from the shelf; confirm it reads 3 V or test it in another device. A weak car 12 V battery can also make the i10 slow to answer the remote.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Changing the battery leaves the fob’s existing coding untouched, so an i10 remote works immediately afterwards with no reprogramming. A new or replacement key is a different matter: the blade has to be cut to the car, and the transponder inside paired to the i10’s immobiliser with diagnostic equipment. Blank fobs are ordered against the car’s VIN, so adding a spare or replacing a lost key is a job for a Hyundai dealer or an auto-locksmith. Keep the battery in your spare key fresh too, and you are never down to a single working remote.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Hyundai i10 Mk2 key fob take?
A single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell. The same battery fits both the folding flip remote and the smart keyless fob used on this generation.
Which way round does the battery go?
On the folding flip remote the positive (+) side faces up, printed side visible. On the smart fob, copy the orientation of the cell you removed. Fitting it the wrong way stops the fob working and can flatten the new cell.
Do I need to reprogram the key after changing the battery?
No. A battery swap does not affect the fob’s coding, so it works straight away. Only a brand-new key needs pairing to the car.
How long should an i10 key battery last?
Usually two to four years. Frequent locking and unlocking, or leaving a keyless fob near the car so it keeps waking up, will shorten that.
My i10 remote still won’t work after a new battery — what now?
Re-check the polarity and that the cell is seated firmly, then wipe the contacts. If the button LED still won’t light with a known-good CR2032, the fob’s transmitter may have failed and need replacing — but that is far rarer than a flat or upside-down cell.
Can I still get into and start the i10 if the fob is completely dead?
Yes. Slide out the mechanical blade to unlock the driver’s door by hand. Cars with the smart system are designed to still start with a flat fob battery, so a dead cell won’t strand you at the roadside.
If the remote stopped working suddenly — right after the car battery was disconnected, say, rather than fading over weeks — the cause is more likely the pairing or a stored fault than the coin cell. You can look up what any warning light or stored code means on autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Hyundai. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.