These instructions apply to the Lancia Ypsilon Mk3 (846) 2011-2024.
For other models, please choose your vehicle here.
If the remote on your Lancia Ypsilon (846, 2011–2024) only works up close, flashes weakly, or has stopped responding, the coin cell in the fob is almost always the reason. This third-generation Ypsilon — the long-lived supermini built on the same small-car platform as the Fiat 500 and Panda — used a flip (switchblade) key with a fold-out metal blade, and it shares its coin cell with most of that Fiat-group family. Swapping the battery is a quick driveway job that leaves the fob’s coding untouched, so there’s no dealer trip afterwards. Here are the warning signs, the exact cell to buy, and how to open this key without cracking it.

How to Tell the Fob Battery Is Dying
- Range keeps shrinking. You have to stand right beside the Ypsilon — or hold the fob against the door — to lock or unlock it. A collapsing range is the classic first symptom.
- The fob LED fades. The little light that flashes on each press dims or stops once the cell is weak — a fast way to prove it’s the fob, not the car.
- Hit-and-miss buttons. The car answers one press in three, and it’s worse on a cold morning when a tired lithium cell struggles.
- Reaching for the blade. If you’ve started unlocking by hand because the buttons are unreliable, the battery is overdue.
A coin cell in an Ypsilon remote typically lasts three to four years. If yours is around that age and misbehaving, fit a fresh one before you suspect the receiver or immobiliser.
The Battery You Need
The Ypsilon flip key takes a single CR2032 — a 3-volt lithium coin cell about 20 mm across, the same cell fitted to Fiat 500, Panda, Punto and related keys of the period. It’s stocked by every supermarket, hardware shop and newsagent. Buy a good branded cell; budget batteries sag under the brief high current the transmitter draws and can give short range even when fresh. If you’d rather be certain, open the fob first and read the code printed on the old cell — it should say CR2032.

Replacing the Cell — Step by Step
- Fold the blade away. Close the metal key blade into the fob so the case is easier to hold and you can see the seam and fixings clearly.
- Open the case. Look for a small cross-head (Phillips) screw on the back — if there is one, undo it with a fine screwdriver and lift the cover. If your fob has no screw and simply clips together, slip a thin flat tool into the seam and gently prise the two halves apart rather than forcing one spot.
- Note the orientation, then lift the cell out. Look at which face is up before you move it. On this key the fresh CR2032 goes in positive (+) side up, but the reliable rule is to copy exactly what you removed.
- Fit the new cell. Handle it by the edges — grease on the flat faces harms the contact — and press it home under its clip until it’s fully seated.
- Reassemble. Refit the cover and screw (snug, not over-tight — the case is plastic) or clip the halves back together until they click, then test lock, unlock and boot from a few paces.
⚠️ Get the polarity right. A coin cell forced in upside down makes poor contact and can quietly drain, so a “new” battery turns up already flat. If in any doubt, match the orientation of the cell you took out — that is always correct for your fob.
Did It Work?
Stand back a few metres and lock, then unlock, the Ypsilon. Full range should return the instant a healthy cell is in place, and the fob’s LED should blink crisply again on every press. If range is still short, reopen the fob and confirm the cell is seated flat and the right way round before looking any further.
If a Fresh Cell Doesn’t Fix It
- Re-seat the battery. The commonest reason a new cell “doesn’t work” is that it’s upside down or not fully pressed onto the contacts.
- Clean the terminals. A dry wipe of the metal tabs removes grease or light corrosion that causes dropouts.
- Test each button. If lock works but unlock or boot doesn’t, the fault is in a fob switch, not the battery.
- Rule out the car. A weak 12 V vehicle battery can make the whole car slow to respond and mimic a key fault — worth checking if the Ypsilon itself is sluggish to wake.
New Key or Spare — Why It’s a Dealer Job
Changing the battery leaves the fob’s coding untouched, so the remote keeps working immediately with no reprogramming. A new or replacement key is a different matter: the Ypsilon’s transponder is tied to the car’s immobiliser, so a blank must be cut to the correct blade profile and coded to your VIN with diagnostic equipment. That makes adding a spare or replacing a lost key a job for a Lancia dealer or a qualified auto-locksmith. Keep the cell in your spare key fresh too, and you’ll never be caught with only one working remote.
Frequently Asked Questions
What battery does a Lancia Ypsilon key fob take?
A single CR2032 3-volt lithium coin cell — the same cell used across the Fiat 500, Panda and Punto keys the Ypsilon shares its design with.
Which way up does the battery go?
The positive (+) face sits upward in the Ypsilon holder. Even so, note how the old cell sat and fit the new one identically — an upside-down cell can flatten itself and leave the key dead.
Do I need to reprogram the key after changing the battery?
No. A battery swap doesn’t affect the coding, so the remote works the moment the fresh cell is in. Only an entirely new key needs programming to the car.
How long should an Ypsilon key battery last?
Around three to four years for most owners. Frequent use of the remote, or a low-quality cell, can shorten that.
New battery in and it still won’t work — is the fob broken?
Usually not. Re-check the cell’s polarity and that it’s firmly on clean contacts. If the LED still won’t light with a known-good cell, a button contact or the transmitter may have failed — uncommon next to a simple flat or reversed battery.
Can I still drive the Ypsilon if the fob is completely dead?
Yes. Fold out the emergency blade to unlock the driver’s door, then start the car with the key as normal — a flat remote cell only disables the buttons, not the car itself.
If your Ypsilon’s remote quit suddenly — especially just after the car battery was disconnected or went flat — rather than fading over weeks, the pairing or a stored electrical fault is a likelier cause than the coin cell; you can look up what a logged code means over at autodtcs.com.
Independent guide — not affiliated with Lancia. Always follow your official service manual and safety precautions. Read our full disclaimer.